There will be times when you will want to show off your quilt – or wall hanging, for that matter! – either at a show or on a wall in your own home. The question that arises then is how to carry out such a plan.
It should go without saying that you should avoid hammering a nail through the quilt in order to hang it on the wall (although non-quilters may not understand why not).
There are a number of distinct types of quilting hangers available, some of which are relatively simple while others are both fairly elaborate and expensive.
However, there are times when you might prefer to exhibit the quilt or wall hanging without the visual distraction of a wooden hanger or clamping device.
In addition, the clamping devices typically do not apply a consistent amount of pressure across the entire surface of the quilt. A good number of them are held together by knobs that can be screwed in order to make them tighter.
Because of this, there will be pressure exactly where the knob is as well as a few inches on either side of it; however, the pressure will decrease the further you move away from the knob. In the event that there is an excessive amount of space between the knobs, your quilt or wall hanging may sag and hang in an uneven manner.
In addition, you might find it convenient to have the option of hanging quilts of varying dimensions.
A quick and easy hanging sleeve that can be used for a wall hanging or a quilt.
One possible solution is to sew a hanging sleeve onto the back of your quilt and then insert something into the sleeve that will serve as a hanger, such as a piece of plastic tube or a piece of wood. This will allow the quilt to be hung up.
Attaching the Hanging Sleeve to the Binding by Stitching
Step 1 – Measure the fabric to make your hanging sleeve
It is beneficial to have an idea of the width of the piece of wood or plastic that you intend to use in the sleeve before you begin. Make your sleeve fairly wide so that it can fit almost any piece if you don’t know what you’re doing.
This sleeve for hanging is stitched under the binding of the book.
In most cases, I will position the stick within a length of fabric and then fold the fabric over the wood in a sloppy manner. After that, I add an allowance for the seam.
My decision regarding how much of a seam allowance to add is determined by the amount of the quilt’s binding that will be visible on the reverse side. If there is a binding that is half an inch wide, I add one inch of seam allowance to the width of the hanging sleeve. I put half an inch of seam allowance on each side of the sleeve.
You will want to fold the fabric around the stick in an asymmetrical manner so that it is simple to insert and remove the stick from the sleeve.
Step 2 – Turn over the raw edges on the ends
The raw edges of the hanging sleeve should not be visible after the following steps have been completed: turn over and stitch 1/4-inch folds on each of the ends of the hanging sleeve. Although this step is not required, completing it gives the impression that the hanging sleeve was professionally done.
Step 3 – Fold the hanging sleeve in half and attach it to the back of the quilt
Attach the hanging sleeve to the backing of the quilt or wall hanging you are making by pinning it in place and aligning the raw edges of the hanging sleeve with the edges of the quilt.
Attach the hanging sleeve and the binding to the quilt using stitches.
Step 4 – Fold the binding onto the back of the quilt
After folding the binding over to the back of the quilt, secure it in place. A blind stitch is what I use most of the time when I’m hand-stitching the binding onto the back of my quilt or wall hanging.
Step 5 – Attach the bottom edge of the hanging sleeve onto the back of your quilt or wall hanging
Make sure that the overhand stitch you use is fairly long and loose. Do this by stitching the bottom edge of the hanging sleeve onto the back of the quilt.
If the quilt turns out to be heavy and causes strain on the fabric by hanging, the threads holding the sleeve will break and the sleeve will come loose, as opposed to the back fabric of your quilt ripping as a result of the strain. This is the theory behind this technique.
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