Because I had the triangle templates, I was able to determine the size of the cut that should be made to each of the triangle’s sides. Each of the sides that are not biased has a measurement of 2 3/8 inches. On a sheet of paper that was otherwise blank, I drew lines that were parallel and were spaced 2 3/8 inches apart.
After that, I proceeded to draw perpendicular lines that were also spaced 2 3/8 inches apart, which resulted in a grid of squares that were each 2 3/8 inches in size.
After that, I connected all of the triangles in the grid by drawing lines in the triangles that went from one corner to the next corner. These are the cutting lines that will result in your triangles that are half the size of a square.
Prepare the paper grid by cutting a rectangle of fabric to fit it.
When I had finished drawing the solid cutting lines, I went back and added dashed lines to either side of the solid cutting lines. These dashed lines are the sewing lines, and they are spaced 1/4 inch away from the cutting lines. This results in a seam allowance of 1/4 inch being added to each half-square triangle.
I was trying to save some material, so I trimmed the excess paper off the right side of the sheet of paper and the top of the sheet. Following this, a rectangle was formed that was approximately 8 inches tall and 11 inches wide.
This can now be positioned on the fabric without any further preparation.
I started by placing the two pieces of fabric that would become the half-square triangles with the right sides together. Next, I folded them in half with the selvedges aligned. The fabric on top, which can be seen in the picture above, is white with green flowers and is turned so that the right side is facing the green fabric.
There will be 24 half-square triangles generated from each of the triangle grids. This quilt will require a total of 120 half-square triangles, with each block requiring 20 of them. Because of this, I needed 5 of these grids in order to have the necessary quantity of half-square triangles for the quilt.
Keep in mind that if you fold the fabric in this manner, you will be able to cut two of the grid units simultaneously.
The grid should be pinned to the layers of fabric so that it is ready to be stitched.
To make things a little bit simpler, I cut away sufficient amounts of fabric to make the required number of grids.
Place the grid on top of the fabric, and then cut a strip that is sufficiently wide to go beyond the edge of the paper.
Each strip will result in the creation of four grids.
Next, I positioned the grid over the strip so that I could visualize how to cut each strip so that I would have sufficient fabric to extend beyond the length of the paper grid. This step was followed by the cutting of the fabric.
After that, I cut the fabric all the way around the grid, and it was finally ready to be sewn.
Stitch along each and every one of the dashed lines.
Take apart the sewing units, which are the two layers of fabric that are currently positioned with their right sides together. After you have pinned a paper grid to each of the sewing units, you are ready to sew the units together using your sewing machine.
Follow the dashed lines when you stitch. It ought to be possible for you to follow them all the way around the rectangle of paper without having to remove the paper from your machine.
It is imperative that all of the dashed lines be stitched. This indicates that the area should be filled on both sides of the solid lines. You will cut the lines that are solid.
Separate the triangles using the cutter.
After you have completed stitching along the dashed lines, remove the rectangle from your sewing machine and proceed to cut along the solid lines.
You will end up with 24 half-square triangles, each of which will require having the paper backing removed before being opened up.
Remove the paper, and once it’s removed, you’ll see triangles that are split down the middle with white and green.
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